Abstract
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH,
VOL. 108,
3112,
15 PP., 2003
doi:10.1029/2000JC000684
Observations of bed level change in a saturated surf zone
Institute of Marine Studies, University of Plymouth, Plymouth, UK
Institute of Marine Studies, University of Plymouth, Plymouth, UK
Oceanography Department, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, California, USA
Institute of Marine Studies, University of Plymouth, Plymouth, UK
Sonar altimeter measurements of bed level change were made in conjunction with instantaneous measurements of sea surface elevation and currents at a fixed position in a saturated surf zone (water depths less than 1 m). Two types of bed behavior were observed, classified as “progressive,” where mean bed level showed a steady increase or decrease with time, and “oscillatory,” where the bed level took a periodic motion (amplitudes 0.5–1.5 cm, periods 10–30 min). “Mixed” combinations of the two behaviors were also observed. Comparisons between bed behavior and a wave-based mobility number parameter (Ψ) observed oscillatory beds for Ψ < 40 and mixed behavior for 40 < Ψ < 80, suggesting that bed level oscillations were due to the presence of small-scale migratory bedforms (ripples). Bed oscillations were suppressed with increased wave energy, such that progressive bed behavior was observed when 80 < Ψ. The increase in mobility numbers associated with progressive beds was due to the presence of an energetic infragravity component (Euig/Eui > 1 and Euig > 0.05 m2s−2) and strong mean current (>0.1 ms−1). A fractal analysis of the bed level time series was used to test the hypothesis that the process of ripple migration is nonlinear (“self-organised”) rather than a direct response to variations in the forcing component. For low wave energy conditions, when ripples were observable (oscillatory and mixed time series), values of the Local Hurst Exponent (0 < HL < 1) suggested fractal behavior at ripple migration timescales, indicating that the process by which ripples migrate is nonlinear and is allowed to flourish when the hydrodynamic forcing is weak.
Published 4 April 2003.
Citation: (2003), Observations of bed level change in a saturated surf zone, J. Geophys. Res., 108(C4), 3112, doi:10.1029/2000JC000684.
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